Circumstances have changed for the better and I can move forward with my Z.
I had a look underneath the other day and nearly cried, years of manx sea air have not been kind. I planned on replace every suspension component with upgraded adjustable types anyway, so the wishbones and connecting rods ect don't concern me. What does concern me is the "chassis" they attach to.
The rusted hole in the floor pan extends into the chassis rail and the sub frames will need replacing. Buying and transporting a donor car will be difficult, giving that I live on a rock in the middle of the sea. So the first question is:
Probably looks worse than it is to be fair. If most of it is surface rust, I.e. can't poke a screw driver through it, you can probably treat a lot of it without actually having to replace parts. That said, I'm looking on my phone in the sunlight, so I may not be seeing just how bad it is.
Don't look roo bad, try poking a screwdriver about, if it's gone the screwdriver will go through it. Take the rear quarter panels off and have a look/feel down the bottom that's were the worse rust usually is
If you zoom in on the pic guys the top left of the floor is gone, And yes its repairable i have repaired worse and seen a lot worse before. POR cant remember the rest of the model no. Those suspension parts and such you could get away with a decent wire wheel and then metal primer either powder coat or paint after its done waxoil everywhere to protect it from this again.
Thanks for your help guys, that was exactly the sort of advice i was looking for:
I will purchase some Neutrarust 661 and waxoil. I fancy having a go at powder coating, so I will probably purchase a kit.
Regarding the degree of rust, the metal is certainly thin in some areas, such as the front lower cross member. When I jacked the car up, big flakes of metal were falling of, so I think it may be an idea to buy a replacement.
The jacking points on the chassis rails have been bent and have rusted through. The rust would need to be cut off, with new metal welded on.
A couple more questions:
1) Repairing the floor pan, what thickness sheet should I use?
2) When repairing the chassis rails, would it be viable to remove the external seam (I can't think how to describe it)? For example, classic mini bodies were welded from outside the car with an external join. Some people cut of these joins and welded the body from the inside, so the boday was nice and smooth.
From: Hailsham, east sussex
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